Posts Tagged ‘pictures


For Zanny

I threw this tutorial together quickly for my aunt who wanted to mend a small hole in a relatively new, nice bedsheet. This is the method I use for mending small, regular-shaped holes in clothes or sheets where I don’t want a visible patch. I didn’t do a terribly good job mending the hole I cut in this scrap of muslin, but even a tiny bit more effort would have resulted in a nicer outcome. With that caveat stated upfront, here’s a quick tutorial on how to mend a hole in fabric.

1. Begin with fabric that has a hole.

2. Cut a patch a little wider and longer than the hole, using fabric of a similar weight and color (if you have identical fabric on hand, all the better).

3. Pin the patch over the hole on the wrong side of the fabric.

4. Set up your sewing machine with thread that matches your fabric as perfectly as possible. Use a zigzag stitch that is wider than the tear, but if possible not as wide as shown here (I wanted the stitches to be really visible for the tutorial, in real life I prefer that mended tears aren’t so easy to spot). Use a medium stitch length at this point.

5. Position fabric so that the tear is centered and put your needle down a little before the tear begins. Sew along the length of the tear to a little past the end of the tear.

6. Once you’ve sewn over the tear once, raise your presser foot, turn the fabric around, and reposition so that it’s centered again.

7. Shorten your stitch length to around what you’d use for a buttonhole.

8. Sew over the tear again, and backstitch a couple stitches at the end.

9. The result is a straight row of stitches straddling the old tear. Clip the thread ends.

10. Press the fabric.

11. Turn over so wrong side shows.

12. And trim the excess from the patch that extends beyond your stitching. (Check out how I’m pretending to be left handed so I could take this pic LOL)

Here’s the wrong side of the end product.

And here’s the right side of the fabric.

And there you have it! The patch underneath will reinforce your fabric so that the new stitches don’t just tear through again the next time you wear your garment (or kick your sheets, as the case may be). If you use a thread that matches well, and work with a zigzag that’s a bit narrower than what I used for this tutorial, then the outcome is a fairly nonchalant little row of stitches with no other visible signs of the tear that was.


Birth of a Muslin

I spent a couple days this past week drafting the pattern and sewing up the muslin for a bridal gown I’ll be making in the near future. I thought I’d share the experience with my readers!

I pretty much always begin by sizing my dressform to my client’s measurements. This particular gown will be made for a plus sized gal with an hourglass figure, whose measurements were a bit larger than my adjustable dressform adjusts. I needed a good representation of her figure to be able to drape the bodice, and I didn’t want to swing for one of those deluxe uber adjustable dressforms just for the muslin. So, I cut 4″ wide strips of quilt batting and wrapped them around the form to pad it.  I had lots of control over *where* the extra padding went, and the batting is just fuzzy enough to sort of stick to itself which made it easy to put it on. Right after taking this snapshot, I took a roll of masking tape to it so I wouldn’t have to deal with the batting shifting each time I put the muslin onto and off of the dress form.

Padded Dressform

Once I was sure I had a good size and shape, I drew up the pattern for the bodice lining. For the lining I used a simple princess seamed strapless pattern, converted it to a sweetheart neckline, shortened and tapered the skirt. I left it a little longer than the final bodice would be, so I could draw out the asymmetrical line where the bodice attaches to the skirt in 3D, right up on my dress form. (It doesn’t show terribly well in the picture, but I drew my line straight on the muslin with a ballpoint pen). I also adjusted the back of the bodice, to allow for corset style lacing in the back. I drafted the skirt pieces and matched them up to the bodice to mark out the same angled lines for that seam.

Muslin Pattern

Having removed the skirt pattern from the bodice lining, I moved on to draping the bodice itself. This was by far the most time consuming part of the process. I pinned muslin fabric straight onto the bodice lining, taking up small, irregular pintucks. I didn’t want the dress to look pleated, but rather to have a slightly random, organic look to the ruching, so I spent a lot of time undoing and redoing the pinning, twisting and stretching the fabric, until I had everything in place. Then after a strong blast of steam from my iron to set the wrinkles (and make them a tad less poofy), I had to carefully remove the pins from the lining, and replace them in the outer fabric, so I could take it over to my machine and stitch it down. Had to do this four times for the different sections of ruched fabric, then sew them together.

Bodice Draping

Once the bodice fabric was sewn together I attached it to the lining, and then sewed the skirt onto the bodice. Added the laces in the back, and there you have it, a muslin that gives a really good feel for what the final product will be!

Rhianna Muslin Front Rhianna Muslin Back

June 2018
« May    

Blog Stats

  • 31,949 hits

Top Posts